@ PENTAX K-X photo by JIN
2011.08.22. Brick Lane. London
Roberto Costa
Born and raised in Brazil, Roberto has always been fascinated by other cultures. He left his country 20 years ago and has travelled extensively throughout America and Europe.
He studied TV and Video Production at the Art Institute of Dallas in the U.S., before moving to New York, and then London, where he worked for seven years as an associate producer for some of the major British TV production companies.
His creativity and interest in different cultures led him to explore the story, symbology and meaning in found vintage pieces and he started to collect reclaimed, broken materials, painstakingly gathering these from a variety of sources and reassembling them into renewed incarnations as necklaces and bracelets.
Initially selling his unique handmade pieces in London’s Portobello Market, he later opened shop in Brick Lane Market and founded his own accessories label, Maria Zureta, evoking the spirit of the fearless, brazen libertine of 19th century Brazil.
Roberto now works exclusively as a jewellery designer and his collections of handmade contemporary jewellery reflect an ideology of adaptation and re-use. Every necklace and bracelet is a unique piece that encapsulates the sustainable spirit of our time.
The Maria Zureta label has since featured in fashion editorial in various publications and is now available in boutiques across Europe, America and Japan.
MARIA ZURETA According to your career, it’s quite interesting you’re the former TV program producer, jewelry designer. What was the decisive point(moment) of changing your job?
The majority of the the Reality tv programmes I worked on was very formatted and with no room for one's creativity to flow, so I felt the need for finding a new career, where I could express myself and my ideas with more freedom. At the time, I was also becoming quite environmentally conscious, so the idea of creating an upcycled product was inevitable.
Tell me the meaning and concept of “Maria Zureta”. Where inspirations(ideas) about jewelry design come from?
The name Maria Zureta comes from the story of a Brazilian entity known for being fearless, she used to wear outrageous clothing and jewellery and was condemned to wander the streets forever able to gain salvation only by providing protection for the mortals who invoke her name. The Maria Zureta jewellery is all about using recycled, reclaimed, antique and broken material, combining these elements and giving them a new life. The inspiration comes from the grandeur and glamour of Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian eras and 1920s-1950s fashion with contemporary ideas of sustainability.
The ideology “adaptaion and re-use” looks very productive ideas in the fast fashion world nowadays. Making jewelry by hand, how dose it work(proceed of manufacture)?
they're indeed all made by hand, a big part of the process is the finding of the materials from the different sorces I have built over time, it's quite unpredictable what I'm going to find. The second part is trying to create something beautiful out of these unwanted and used objects.
London has both faces which conservative as the historical kingdom and open–minded from multi cultures. What is the current state(trend) of London(based on you experiences other Europe, America)?
London is exciting because is the cohabitation of tradition and new cultures together. The amazing thing about London is that you can always see the fashion emerging from the street, the fashion that is personal to each individual.
About vintage’s attraction… why London people keen on vintage style?
Mainly beacuse you can source vintage easily in here, and it's also a very afordable way of expressing yourself.
If you definite the Londerner’s fashion style? What is the way they dress?
One could say that London is divided in tribes, and each with their own style: hypsters, indies, Nu-ravers, vintage ones, city types and so on.
You present Maria Zureta in Europe, America, Japan even London. Do you have a plan launching your label at new market in the further future? My opinion, Korean like your vintage jewelry
Yes, I'm always interested in having my product reaching a new market. As a matter of fact, I'm about to launch Maria Zureta in Hong Kong, China. Who knows, Korea could be the next one.
Give readers of <MUINE> useful and newest recommendations which hot&trendy places among fashion store, restaurant, pub, club, etc. in London at this time.
In my opinion, the street markets in London are still the best way you can shop, see and be seen in London. Broadway market on Saturdays and the Up Market on Sundays are among my favourites.'
For food the 'Shacklewell Nights' is an amazing experience, a hidden dining venture appearing at interesting and unusual venues across London. For a healthy option, you can try 'Saf', a vegan/raw food unforgettable restaurant located in Old Street and also in High Street Kensington. And Borough market on Fridays and Saturdays for fresh fruits, vegetables and great food.
this article from "MUINE" Magazine by Jin with editor Kim Beach.
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